Canadian aquatic physiology researcher Laura McDonnell quit eating fish, but not for the usual environmental reason like protecting endangered stock or because of the taste. She’s too aware of fraud and plastic pollution to put herself at risk.

At The Walrus, McDonnell explains how mislabeled fish makes it onto our dinner plates, and how mislabeling a mackerel for a tuna, say, can have health consequences. She doesn’t dislike fish or want to quit it, but there are just too many players in the supply chain to identify the culprits in frauds. Worse yet are the pollutants: with the staggering amount of microplastic now floating in the Earth’s aquatic systems, she doesn’t believe there is any natural body of water pure enough to produce a safe, edible fish, so she quite. Even to a diehard fish-eater like me, who eats canned saury for breakfast and sardines for lunch, she makes…

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